Guidebook for Paris
Essentials
Monoprix is like Paris' version of Target! The upper level features clothing, toiletries, toys, books, bakery, etc. while the downstairs level is an amazing grocery store. One-stop shopping.
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Malongo Cafés - INNO Montparnasse
Monoprix is like Paris' version of Target! The upper level features clothing, toiletries, toys, books, bakery, etc. while the downstairs level is an amazing grocery store. One-stop shopping.
A true Parisian street market to pick up fresh produce, meat, fish, cheese, olives, nuts--even wine and fois gras. Regular market open on Tuesdays & Fridays and the famous organic market on Sundays.
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Marche Raspail
Boulevard RaspailA true Parisian street market to pick up fresh produce, meat, fish, cheese, olives, nuts--even wine and fois gras. Regular market open on Tuesdays & Fridays and the famous organic market on Sundays.
A destination grocery store for "oohs" and "aahs" (and the occasional celebrity spotting!). Take your time and just enjoy the experience and glorious displays.
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La Grande Epicerie de Paris
38 Rue de SèvresA destination grocery store for "oohs" and "aahs" (and the occasional celebrity spotting!). Take your time and just enjoy the experience and glorious displays.
Monop' Daily
11 Bd de VaugirardMini Monoprix that has nocturnal hours.
A small grocery store just around the block that is open on Sundays.
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Franprix
16 Rue Alexandre ParodiA small grocery store just around the block that is open on Sundays.
Be prepared to be in awe. This sterile looking environment houses an incredible array of gourmet frozen foods for pulling together a gourmet meal for minimal effort.
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Picard Surgelés
2 Rue CambronneBe prepared to be in awe. This sterile looking environment houses an incredible array of gourmet frozen foods for pulling together a gourmet meal for minimal effort.
Wonderful place to stop for the best cheeses! Owner Marie Quatrehomme was named the best cheesemonger in Paris (She's super nice, too!).
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Fromagerie Quatrehomme
62 Rue de SèvresWonderful place to stop for the best cheeses! Owner Marie Quatrehomme was named the best cheesemonger in Paris (She's super nice, too!).
Boulangerie famous for their HUGE boules of bread--great for tartines and sandwiches! The restaurant next door serves yummy tartines using Poilane bread.
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Poilâne
8 Rue du Cherche-MidiBoulangerie famous for their HUGE boules of bread--great for tartines and sandwiches! The restaurant next door serves yummy tartines using Poilane bread.
Charming boulangerie and a lovely stop halfway to the Eiffel Tower or on the way to Musée Rodin or Invalides.
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Le Boulanger des Invalides
14 Av. de VillarsCharming boulangerie and a lovely stop halfway to the Eiffel Tower or on the way to Musée Rodin or Invalides.
Nice little grocery store on the way to the local boulangerie (and by the 89 bus stop).
115 Rue de Vaugirard
115 Rue de VaugirardNice little grocery store on the way to the local boulangerie (and by the 89 bus stop).
Our neighborhood boulangerie to get a baguette "tradition" (always ask for a "tradition!"), pastries, and sandwiches for lunch.
123 Rue de Vaugirard
123 Rue de VaugirardOur neighborhood boulangerie to get a baguette "tradition" (always ask for a "tradition!"), pastries, and sandwiches for lunch.
Wonderful (organic) boulangerie serving delicious breads and pastries.
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LA PARISIENNE Odessa
19 Rue d'OdessaWonderful (organic) boulangerie serving delicious breads and pastries.
Lovely and very authentic street market that is open on Wednesdays and Saturdays. It starts at the blvd Edgar Quinet by the Monoprix and extends down the boulevard until the Montparnasse cemetery.
87 Boulevard Edgar Quinet
Lovely and very authentic street market that is open on Wednesdays and Saturdays. It starts at the blvd Edgar Quinet by the Monoprix and extends down the boulevard until the Montparnasse cemetery.
Street market in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower open from 8:30-1:30 on Thursdays and Sundays.
23 Avenue de Saxe
23 Avenue de SaxeStreet market in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower open from 8:30-1:30 on Thursdays and Sundays.
Sightseeing
One of my favorite spots in the city! For just 1 Euro you can enjoy a walk through the lovely rose-filled sculpture garden. There are sandboxes in the back--great spot for picnics and playtime.
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Musee Rodin
77 Rue de VarenneOne of my favorite spots in the city! For just 1 Euro you can enjoy a walk through the lovely rose-filled sculpture garden. There are sandboxes in the back--great spot for picnics and playtime.
Take either the 82 bus or the Line 6 metro. Buy tickets online! Pack a picnic and enjoy the view from the Champ de Mars. Multiple playgrounds, carousels, and pony rides for the kids.
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Eiffel Tower
5 Av. Anatole FranceTake either the 82 bus or the Line 6 metro. Buy tickets online! Pack a picnic and enjoy the view from the Champ de Mars. Multiple playgrounds, carousels, and pony rides for the kids.
I call it "Mini-Rodin Museum"--another beautiful rose-filled sculpture garden steps from our apartment. They offer art ateliers for kids, too. Unfortunately closed for renovation starting July 2014.
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Bourdelle Museum
18 Rue Antoine BourdelleI call it "Mini-Rodin Museum"--another beautiful rose-filled sculpture garden steps from our apartment. They offer art ateliers for kids, too. Unfortunately closed for renovation starting July 2014.
Take the 95 bus. Closed Tuesdays! Free the first Sunday of the month (October-March). Open until 10 on Wednesdays & Fridays. Enter through the Carrousel du Louvre entrance to avoid crowds.
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Louvre Museum
Rue de RivoliTake the 95 bus. Closed Tuesdays! Free the first Sunday of the month (October-March). Open until 10 on Wednesdays & Fridays. Enter through the Carrousel du Louvre entrance to avoid crowds.
Take the 92 bus or Line 6 metro to Charles de Gaulle-Etoile. Open until 11 PM (10:30 in fall and winter). Access the Arc by the underground walkway (don't dare walk into the traffic!).
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Arc de Triomphe
Place Charles de GaulleTake the 92 bus or Line 6 metro to Charles de Gaulle-Etoile. Open until 11 PM (10:30 in fall and winter). Access the Arc by the underground walkway (don't dare walk into the traffic!).
Closed Mondays. Open late on Thursdays and free (but crowded!) the first Sunday of the month.
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Gare Musée d'Orsay
Closed Mondays. Open late on Thursdays and free (but crowded!) the first Sunday of the month.
Free admission to the cathedral but there is a charge (and a looong wait) to see the bell towers. Nice playground around the back. Go reward yourself with Berthillon ice cream on Ile Saint Louis!
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Notre Dame
Free admission to the cathedral but there is a charge (and a looong wait) to see the bell towers. Nice playground around the back. Go reward yourself with Berthillon ice cream on Ile Saint Louis!
Another one of our favorites! Inside a beautiful medieval mansion you will find a middle ages museum and then go downstairs into the ancient Roman baths. A great example of the long history of Paris.
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Cluny Museum - National Museum of the Middle Ages
28 Rue du SommerardAnother one of our favorites! Inside a beautiful medieval mansion you will find a middle ages museum and then go downstairs into the ancient Roman baths. A great example of the long history of Paris.
An easy ride on the 96 bus or Line 4 metro. Church with the most beautiful stained glass windows in the world. A real treat to attend a music concert there. Be prepared for long lines!
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Sainte-Chapelle
10 Bd du PalaisAn easy ride on the 96 bus or Line 4 metro. Church with the most beautiful stained glass windows in the world. A real treat to attend a music concert there. Be prepared for long lines!
One of my favorite museums in all of Paris. It is best known for its room featuring Monet's water lilies--extra special if you also do a daytrip to Giverny. Small and totally doable with kids.
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Musee de l'Orangerie
One of my favorite museums in all of Paris. It is best known for its room featuring Monet's water lilies--extra special if you also do a daytrip to Giverny. Small and totally doable with kids.
Currently under renovation, The Panthéon is a great start to a visit to The Latin Quarter. Stop by the now famous "Midnight in Paris" steps and soak in the area over a British pint at The Bombadier.
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Pantheon station
Currently under renovation, The Panthéon is a great start to a visit to The Latin Quarter. Stop by the now famous "Midnight in Paris" steps and soak in the area over a British pint at The Bombadier.
Take the 89 bus to the Jardin des Plantes which offers something for everyone: a zoo, gardens, museums galore. Stop by the Mosquée de Paris for mint tea and sweets before taking the 89 bus home.
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Jardin des Plantes
Take the 89 bus to the Jardin des Plantes which offers something for everyone: a zoo, gardens, museums galore. Stop by the Mosquée de Paris for mint tea and sweets before taking the 89 bus home.
A hidden gem. Free, and a lovely view into Parisian life 100 years ago. See casts of Chopin's hands and Georges Sand's arm (!). Enjoy coffee or lunch in the garden. Very unique.
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Musée de la Vie romantique
16 Rue ChaptalA hidden gem. Free, and a lovely view into Parisian life 100 years ago. See casts of Chopin's hands and Georges Sand's arm (!). Enjoy coffee or lunch in the garden. Very unique.
Paris's most perfect square--a great spot for a picnic (falafel!) and soaking in some sunshine. If you have the time, take a peek into Musée Victor Hugo at #6 (FREE!).
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Place des Vosges
Place des VosgesParis's most perfect square--a great spot for a picnic (falafel!) and soaking in some sunshine. If you have the time, take a peek into Musée Victor Hugo at #6 (FREE!).
A FREE museum dedicated to the history of Paris. Another great stop if you're in the gorgeous Marais.
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Carnavalet Museum
23 Rue de SévignéA FREE museum dedicated to the history of Paris. Another great stop if you're in the gorgeous Marais.
An easy walk from our apartment, take the time to enjoy one of Paris' most beautiful gardens. For the kids, there is an amazing pay playground or go to the Roserie for sandboxes and wading pools.
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Musée du Luxembourg
19 Rue de VaugirardAn easy walk from our apartment, take the time to enjoy one of Paris' most beautiful gardens. For the kids, there is an amazing pay playground or go to the Roserie for sandboxes and wading pools.
Paris's jewel box of an opera house is worth the trip to take a tour--or to see an opera or ballet (bargain tickets as little as 10 Euros!).
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Opéra
10 Pl. de l'OpéraParis's jewel box of an opera house is worth the trip to take a tour--or to see an opera or ballet (bargain tickets as little as 10 Euros!).
Food Scene
Cheap, quick, yummy, and totally kid-friendly, Flam's is very popular with the younger crowd and families. Enjoy the Alsacian "pizza"!
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Flam's
32 Av. du MaineCheap, quick, yummy, and totally kid-friendly, Flam's is very popular with the younger crowd and families. Enjoy the Alsacian "pizza"!
Montparnasse is famous for its authentic Breton creperies. Our local one is our favorite with very creative menu--and a KID MENU! In Breton style, be sure to get some cider to have with your crepes.
Crêperie de Pontivy
29 Av. du MaineMontparnasse is famous for its authentic Breton creperies. Our local one is our favorite with very creative menu--and a KID MENU! In Breton style, be sure to get some cider to have with your crepes.
Charming tea salon that also serves scrumptious pastries and lunch. Very girly, very kid-friendly. Go early (noon) or later (1:30) to be sure to get a seat for lunch--It's a great yummy deal!
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Mamie Gâteaux
66 Rue du Cherche-MidiCharming tea salon that also serves scrumptious pastries and lunch. Very girly, very kid-friendly. Go early (noon) or later (1:30) to be sure to get a seat for lunch--It's a great yummy deal!
Our favorite neighborhood spot for a friendly coffee and a good deal for breakfast (5,50 Euros for a hot drink, OJ, and pastry) or lunch. Kid friendly!
Mamie Lucienne Montparnasse
14 Av. du MaineOur favorite neighborhood spot for a friendly coffee and a good deal for breakfast (5,50 Euros for a hot drink, OJ, and pastry) or lunch. Kid friendly!
A great place to camp out for a late breakfast or lunch on your way to or from Musée Rodin. I'm a big fan of their bread basket (with the chocolate spreads...) and tartines. Kid friendly!
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Le Pain Quotidien
31 Rue LepicA great place to camp out for a late breakfast or lunch on your way to or from Musée Rodin. I'm a big fan of their bread basket (with the chocolate spreads...) and tartines. Kid friendly!
Word seems to have gotten out about this little hole-in-the-wall but it feels like stepping back in time. I was expecting Hemingway to pull up to the bar! Old-world bistro feel, hit-or-miss food.
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Chez Marcel
7 Rue StanislasWord seems to have gotten out about this little hole-in-the-wall but it feels like stepping back in time. I was expecting Hemingway to pull up to the bar! Old-world bistro feel, hit-or-miss food.
The best breakfast bargain in Paris! 3.50 Euros for a hot drink, OJ, and a tartine (baguette with butter and jam). The perfect stop on the way to the Jardin du Luxembourg. Kid friendly!
Café Saint-Placide
127 Rue de RennesThe best breakfast bargain in Paris! 3.50 Euros for a hot drink, OJ, and a tartine (baguette with butter and jam). The perfect stop on the way to the Jardin du Luxembourg. Kid friendly!
Cute little spot for lunch near the Jardin du Luxembourg. Kid friendly, but tiny!
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Les deux cigales
8 Rue BréaCute little spot for lunch near the Jardin du Luxembourg. Kid friendly, but tiny!
This hole-in-the-wall has been around for 150 years and the menu has probably not changed much since then. Classic food, simply prepared. A total bargain, too. No reservations so go early!
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Bistro
This hole-in-the-wall has been around for 150 years and the menu has probably not changed much since then. Classic food, simply prepared. A total bargain, too. No reservations so go early!
This place is recommended by multiple friends (and Gwyneth Paltrow) so it can't be bad! You could totally get dressed up and make a special evening of it--and then walk the 3-minutes back home.
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Joséphine Chez Dumonet
117 Rue du Cherche-MidiThis place is recommended by multiple friends (and Gwyneth Paltrow) so it can't be bad! You could totally get dressed up and make a special evening of it--and then walk the 3-minutes back home.
Our new favorite local restaurant. Fresh, healthy, and creative food with friendly service. Right now it's very much a locals-only kind of place--go before word gets out! Reservations recommended.
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Café Trama
83 Rue du Cherche-MidiOur new favorite local restaurant. Fresh, healthy, and creative food with friendly service. Right now it's very much a locals-only kind of place--go before word gets out! Reservations recommended.
The BEST coffee in Paris! They also have a nice lunch menu with fresh salads and sandwiches. A great stop if going to the Jardin Catherine-Labouré or Le Bon Marché.
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Coutume Café
47 Rue de BabyloneThe BEST coffee in Paris! They also have a nice lunch menu with fresh salads and sandwiches. A great stop if going to the Jardin Catherine-Labouré or Le Bon Marché.
The best lunch bargain in Paris--Big yum! Grab a falafel and enjoy it at Place de Vosges. Go to the (free!) Musée Victor Hugo and Musée Carnavalet while you're in the neighborhood.
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L'as du Fallafel
34 Rue des RosiersThe best lunch bargain in Paris--Big yum! Grab a falafel and enjoy it at Place de Vosges. Go to the (free!) Musée Victor Hugo and Musée Carnavalet while you're in the neighborhood.
A lovely restaurant right in the hip Canal Saint Martin neighborhood. Spend the late afternoon strolling along the canal (or taking a canal cruise) and then stop by for dinner.
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Hôtel du Nord
102 Quai de JemmapesA lovely restaurant right in the hip Canal Saint Martin neighborhood. Spend the late afternoon strolling along the canal (or taking a canal cruise) and then stop by for dinner.
Another favorite right in the heart of the oldest part of the city. They (not surprisingly) specialize in fish and have a great winelist (also the owners of the famous "La Dernière Goutte" wineshop).
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Fish La Boissonnerie
69 Rue de SeineAnother favorite right in the heart of the oldest part of the city. They (not surprisingly) specialize in fish and have a great winelist (also the owners of the famous "La Dernière Goutte" wineshop).
Arts & Culture
A stunning Japanese pagoda--that is actually a movie theater. Watching a film in their gilded "Salle Japonaise"is an experience. Check the listings; the often play English-language films there.
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La Pagode
57 Rue de BabyloneA stunning Japanese pagoda--that is actually a movie theater. Watching a film in their gilded "Salle Japonaise"is an experience. Check the listings; the often play English-language films there.
Entertainment & Activities
Quite possibly my favorite hidden garden in all of Paris and a perfect place to take the kids. Playgrounds, sandboxes, lots of grass to play and picnic under the shade of fruit trees.
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Mairie de Paris Direction des Parcs Jardins et Espaces Verts
Quite possibly my favorite hidden garden in all of Paris and a perfect place to take the kids. Playgrounds, sandboxes, lots of grass to play and picnic under the shade of fruit trees.
Take the Line 10 metro to the Bois de Boulogne to experience Paris's very own amusement park. Mini-roller coasters, trampolines, Mary Poppins-like horses, and other carnival-like games and rides.
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Jardin d'Acclimatation
Route de la Porte Dauphine à la Porte des SablonsTake the Line 10 metro to the Bois de Boulogne to experience Paris's very own amusement park. Mini-roller coasters, trampolines, Mary Poppins-like horses, and other carnival-like games and rides.
Tuileries is the long dusty stretch of garden from Place de la Concorde to The Louvre sprinkled with fountains and play areas for the kids. Keep an eye out for the trampolines and pony rides!
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Tuileries Garden
Place de la ConcordeTuileries is the long dusty stretch of garden from Place de la Concorde to The Louvre sprinkled with fountains and play areas for the kids. Keep an eye out for the trampolines and pony rides!
Paris's famous ice cream shop that offers a huge selection of flavors; always delicious! They are closed in August (as is much of Paris...) but you can enjoy Berthillon at many shops on the island.
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Berthillon
46 Rue Saint-Louis en l'ÎleParis's famous ice cream shop that offers a huge selection of flavors; always delicious! They are closed in August (as is much of Paris...) but you can enjoy Berthillon at many shops on the island.
Beautiful modern pool on the banks of the Seine. Zero-entry childrens' pool and the water is warm! If the weather is nice, the glass roof opens up to enjoy the sunshine and blue skies.
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Piscine Keller
14 Rue de l'Ingénieur Robert KellerBeautiful modern pool on the banks of the Seine. Zero-entry childrens' pool and the water is warm! If the weather is nice, the glass roof opens up to enjoy the sunshine and blue skies.
A very unique pool that is situated ON the Seine. Roof opens up in the summertime if the weather is nice.
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Joséphine Baker Pool
Quai François MauriacA very unique pool that is situated ON the Seine. Roof opens up in the summertime if the weather is nice.
Indoor pool located in the basement of the Montparnasse Tower complex. A bit dated, but a good stop if you need to cool off close to home.
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Piscine Municipale Armand Massard
66 Bd du MontparnasseIndoor pool located in the basement of the Montparnasse Tower complex. A bit dated, but a good stop if you need to cool off close to home.
Shopping
If you happen to be in the neighborhood (right by the exit of The Catacombs), this is THE place to get inexpensive and beautiful Limoges porcelain. This is where we get all of our white dishes.
Porcelaines MP Samie
45 Av. du Général LeclercIf you happen to be in the neighborhood (right by the exit of The Catacombs), this is THE place to get inexpensive and beautiful Limoges porcelain. This is where we get all of our white dishes.
Legendary shopping on the Left Bank and worth the visit to "ooh" and "aah." Continue up rue du Bac or down rue Saint Placide for more fun shopping.
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Le Bon Marche Rive Gauche
24 Rue de SèvresLegendary shopping on the Left Bank and worth the visit to "ooh" and "aah." Continue up rue du Bac or down rue Saint Placide for more fun shopping.
You really can't go wrong with ANYTHING at Pierre Hermé but one of my favorite Paris experiences is getting an Ispahan croissant and eating it in the Jardin du Luxembourg or at a local café. Heaven.
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72 Rue Bonaparte
72 Rue BonaparteYou really can't go wrong with ANYTHING at Pierre Hermé but one of my favorite Paris experiences is getting an Ispahan croissant and eating it in the Jardin du Luxembourg or at a local café. Heaven.
For those who love brocante, this is a great little spot right across the street in the 6th run by two charmingly eccentric ladies. Always bargains to be found, the inventory changes daily!
Brocante Hétéroclite
111 Rue de VaugirardFor those who love brocante, this is a great little spot right across the street in the 6th run by two charmingly eccentric ladies. Always bargains to be found, the inventory changes daily!
Everything Else
Beautiful old church on the Left Bank sitting right on the banks of the Seine. Be sure to check out the Tiffany windows.
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The American Church in Paris
65 Quai d'OrsayBeautiful old church on the Left Bank sitting right on the banks of the Seine. Be sure to check out the Tiffany windows.
Beautiful old church on the Right Bank, not far from the American Church right across from the river.
American Cathedral in Paris
23 Av. George VBeautiful old church on the Right Bank, not far from the American Church right across from the river.
English-speaking Catholic Church located right by the Arc de Triomphe. It's neither old nor pretty but has three charming priests who make the environment very familial.
Église catholique anglophone Saint Joseph
50 Av. HocheEnglish-speaking Catholic Church located right by the Arc de Triomphe. It's neither old nor pretty but has three charming priests who make the environment very familial.
Paris's oldest church right in the middle of one of the ritziest areas on the Left Bank. Walk straight up rue de Rennes until you find yourself at the boulevard Saint Germain and there it is!
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Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Paris's oldest church right in the middle of one of the ritziest areas on the Left Bank. Walk straight up rue de Rennes until you find yourself at the boulevard Saint Germain and there it is!
This ancient church is famous for being in The DaVinci Code, Hemingway's "A Moveable Feast", where the Marquis de Sade was baptized (!), and Victor Hugo was married. Right by the Jardin du Luxembourg
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Saint-Sulpice station
This ancient church is famous for being in The DaVinci Code, Hemingway's "A Moveable Feast", where the Marquis de Sade was baptized (!), and Victor Hugo was married. Right by the Jardin du Luxembourg
Buses 28/82/89/92. Bus 82 takes you to Invalides, Ecole Militaire, the Eiffel Tower, and the American Hospital. Bus 92 takes you to Invalides, Ecole Militaire and L'Arc de Triomphe.
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Au Chien Qui Fume
33 Rue du Pont NeufBuses 28/82/89/92. Bus 82 takes you to Invalides, Ecole Militaire, the Eiffel Tower, and the American Hospital. Bus 92 takes you to Invalides, Ecole Militaire and L'Arc de Triomphe.
Bus 89 takes you to the Jardin du Luxembourg, the Panthéon, across the river from the Ile Saint Louis, and the Jardin des Plantes. Return bus stop is across from the mosque (great mint tea & sweets!)
62 Boulevard du Montparnasse
Bus 89 takes you to the Jardin du Luxembourg, the Panthéon, across the river from the Ile Saint Louis, and the Jardin des Plantes. Return bus stop is across from the mosque (great mint tea & sweets!)
Bus 89 takes you to the Jardin du Luxembourg, the Panthéon, across the river from the Ile Saint Louis, and the Jardin des Plantes. Return bus stop is across from the mosque (great mint tea & sweets!)
113 Rue de Vaugirard
113 Rue de VaugirardBus 89 takes you to the Jardin du Luxembourg, the Panthéon, across the river from the Ile Saint Louis, and the Jardin des Plantes. Return bus stop is across from the mosque (great mint tea & sweets!)